Crunchy curls are back in style: here's how to use a "cast" to keep your curls looking great longer
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I LOVE CRUNCHY CURLS! Yes, you heard right! Every time I wash my hair, I pray to the curl gods that they’ll give me some crunchy curls after I blow-dry it with a diffuser. Why? Because it’s a sign that my products are working and that my curls will stay beautiful longer.
But what makes your curls feel stiff? Why does that happen? That stiff feeling in your hair is called a“cast.”It’s a thin layer that forms when you use styling products such as strong-hold gels, mousses, and foams. Although not all styling products cause a cast, the way you use them is more important than you might think.
And just so you know: the cast doesn’t look the same for everyone. If you have wavy hair, the cast might be subtle, and your waves will feel stiff rather than crisp. If you have curly or frizzy hair, the cast is usually more noticeable, and it’s more satisfying to squeeze it out. Either way, it’s a good sign!
How do you get crunchy curls?
A FRESH START
Make sure your hair is free of product residue. You can use a clarifying shampoo for this (I actually prefer shampoos that contain sulfates), so I can be sure my scalp and hair are completely free of all the dirt and impurities that have built up. You don’t need to use sulfates every time you wash your hair, just when you think your hair and scalp need that extra cleansing.
I usually use this shampoo because I sometimes have an itchy scalp. It works great for me!
USE THE RIGHT PRODUCTS
If you only use a curl cream, you won't get strong hold! It's important to use styling products that provide hold, such as gels, mousses, and strong-hold foam. Here are some of my favorites:
APPLY TO WET HAIR, NOT SOAKING WET
I know you’ve always been told to apply your products to soaking-wet hair, but you know what? If you have fine, wavy, or curly hair, that might not be the best way to apply your products. Why? Because water weighs your hair down, and the products just get diluted when you apply them to soaking-wet hair. Try applying them to wet hair, but not to soaking wet or dripping wet hair.
THE SMASTERS METHOD
Basically, this involves applying a gel, mousse, or foam to damp hair. You can do this after you’ve “plopped” your hair, or—my favorite way—when your hair is 60–70% dry. Apply the product and gently work it through your hair, without disturbing the curls too much.
The reason this works so well is that when your hair is drier, the products are less diluted and can therefore adhere better to your hair, creating a firmer layer. Less water means more crunch!
And if you're new to the curly hair community: “plopping” is when you wrap your freshly washed hair in a cotton T-shirt or towel to gently absorb the excess water before styling it. This helps reduce frizz and makes your hair dry faster!
DIFFUSING THE RIGHT WAY
Don't use the diffuser too early while blow-drying to style your hair. Instead, start by blow-drying the roots, then the lengths a little, and then switch to blow-drying by hand. When blow-drying by hand, cup your hand, lift the hair upward, and then blow-dry it.
DON'T DO SOTC (SCRUNCH OUT THE CRUNCH) RIGHT AWAY
If you love crunchy curls as much as I do, you don't have to scrunch them right away to get rid of that crunch. Instead, let them sit like that for a little while so your curls get an extra layer of protection and stay frizz-free longer.
For example, if you’re going outside, you can just leave your hair alone. Or if you’re too self-conscious, you can style it a little with a silk scarf (to prevent frizz) or a light oil, but not completely. Once you’ve arrived at your destination, you can then style it fully. My personal favorite is to first scrunch my hair with a silk scarf to gently break up the texture, and then finish it off with a few drops of Curly Secret Scrunching Oil for that soft, shiny finish without losing definition.
You can also do this if you're short on time. Wash and style your hair in the evening, and squeeze the stiffness out of it the next morning.
ONE MORE THING: MOISTURE IS IMPORTANT!
If you live in a humid environment, you might notice that your cast doesn’t last as long, or that your scrunch-out is frizzier than expected. High humidity can prevent products from setting properly, so on humid days, it’s worth using a product with stronger hold or applying a thin layer of hairspray over your cast before it’s completely dry. On the other hand, if you’re in a very dry environment, your cast might feel extra stiff—and that’s completely normal, too!
MY FAVORITE PRODUCT COMBINATIONS FOR A SOLID CRUNCH
✅ Cleanse with the Vichy Laboratoire Dercoss Anti-Dandruff Shampoo
✅ Skip the conditioner (I do this because I want maximum hold and no extra smoothness. Conditioner makes the hair softer, which is usually fine, but in this routine it can get in the way of good hold!)
✅ Prepare your hair with Tootilab Soft Leave-In Cream
✅Style your hair using a combination of mousse, gel, and mousse. In this case, I’m using foam. First, apply the Curly Secret Define+ Styling Foam and the Tootilab All Weather Styling Gel to wet hair by working them through with your fingers.
✅ Then apply more Curly Secret Define+ Styling Foam while blow-drying with a diffuser (Smasters method).
✅ Scrunch it out with the Curly Secret Scrunching Oil if needed.
Do you love crunchy curls, too? Let us know in the comments below!
